WTC Quiltstitched with care since 2001

Free pattern: nine-patch throw quilt

The nine-patch is where most quilters start, and for good reason: it’s nothing but squares, so you learn accurate cutting and a steady ¼-inch seam without any triangles to wrestle. This throw alternates nine-patch blocks with plain squares, so it sews up fast and looks crisp.

A red and cream patchwork quilt with a navy border folded over a white rocking chair on a sunny porch
Nine-patch throw quilt: red and cream nine-patch blocks alternating with plain cream blocks in 7 rows of 5, framed by a navy border
Finished quilt: 53 × 71 inches. 35 blocks (18 nine-patches and 17 plain), 9 inches finished, with a 4-inch border.

The finished quilt is 53 × 71 inches, a generous throw or lap size. Blocks are 9-inch nine-patches made from 3½-inch squares, sewn with a ¼-inch seam throughout. It's a beginner pattern.

Fabric

Yardage assumes 42-inch-wide quilting cotton with at least 40 inches usable after the selvages are trimmed.

FabricUsed forYardage
Red (or scraps)Nine-patch squares1 yd
CreamNine-patch squares and plain blocks2¼ yd
NavyBorder and binding1½ yd
BackingBack of the quilt3½ yd
BattingMiddle layerAt least 61 × 79 in (twin size): Warm & Natural twin fits

Want to resize it? Our sister site has a guide to working out quilt yardage.

Cutting

Cut strips across the width of the fabric, selvage to selvage, then subcut.

FabricCut stripsSubcut
Red9 strips, 3½ in90 squares, 3½ × 3½ in
Cream7 strips, 3½ in72 squares, 3½ × 3½ in
Cream5 strips, 9½ in17 squares, 9½ × 9½ in
Navy7 strips, 4½ inBorder (join first)
Navy7 strips, 2½ inBinding

A sharp rotary cutter makes all the difference with this many squares. See StitchTested’s rotary cutter picks.

Make the nine-patch blocks

Nine-patch block: a 3 by 3 grid with red squares in the corners and center and cream squares between
Each block uses 5 red and 4 cream squares.
  1. Sew rows of three: red, cream, red (make 2 per block) and cream, red, cream (make 1 per block).
  2. Press seams toward the red squares. In each block, the seams of neighboring rows will then point in opposite directions, so they “nest” and the corners line up.
  3. Sew the three rows together, matching the seams. Press.
  4. Check the size: each block should measure 9½ inches square. Make 18.

Assemble the quilt top

  1. Lay out 7 rows of 5 blocks. Odd rows start and end with a nine-patch (nine-patch, plain, nine-patch, plain, nine-patch); even rows start and end with a plain block.
  2. Sew the blocks into rows. Press seams toward the plain blocks so they nest with the next row.
  3. Sew the rows together. The center should measure 45½ × 63½ inches.

Add the border

  1. Join the seven 4½-inch navy strips end to end into one long strip.
  2. Measure the quilt top through its center, top to bottom (it should be about 63½ inches). Cut two border strips to that length and sew them to the sides.
  3. Measure again through the center, side to side (about 53½ inches). Cut two strips and sew them to the top and bottom.

Measuring through the center, not along the edges, keeps the border from rippling.

Finish

  1. Layer the backing (right side down), batting and quilt top (right side up). Baste with pins or spray.
  2. Quilt as you like. Straight lines a ¼ inch on each side of the seams (“stitch in the ditch” or echo quilting) suit this design and are easy with a walking foot.
  3. Trim the edges and bind with the 2½-inch navy strips. See how to bind a quilt.
  4. Add a label. See how to label a quilt.

Variations

  • Go scrappy: cut the 90 red squares from many different scraps. Keep the cream the same so the pattern still reads.
  • Make it bigger: add one more row and one more column (7 × 9 blocks) for a 71 × 89 inch twin.
  • For a double nine-patch, replace the center square of each block with a tiny nine-patch of 1½-inch squares.

This pattern is free for personal use and for charity quilts. Please don’t sell the pattern itself.